Mixing up a tasty Super Bowl

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February 3, 2010

Ipswich brewer draws on background as a chef

By Steve Landwehr The Salem News Wed Feb 03, 2010, 12:13 AM EST

IPSWICH — Cake and ice cream. Sugar and spice. The Super Bowl and beer.

Some things just seem made for each other.

From Super Bowl I in 1967 to this year's extravaganza, Super Bowl XLIV, America's mega-breweries have been mega-promoters. Even their foreign counterparts gobble up lots of airtime to pitch their products, and vie with each other to come up with the catchiest commercials.

As the stature of Super Bowl Sunday has grown, so have Super Bowl parties, even among people who don't watch another football game all year. Food — and beer — are an integral part of the festive mix.

There's nothing wrong with the Budweisers and Millers of the brew world, but in the last 10 years microbreweries producing "craft beers" have popped up from coast to coast.

One such company is Ipswich's Mercury Brewing, which is approaching its 20th anniversary. Head brewer Dan Lipke has been working there the past six years and said most of his job responsibilities revolve around keeping the production line going.

But he does help create new recipes, which the company releases from time to time, usually seasonally.

"The way I look at it, it's definitely a craft," he said of creating new brews. "The best recipes evolve through the artistic process. I also used to be a chef — it helps to have good taste."

Lipke said the growth of the small brewery industry began in the Pacific Northwest, where hops, which help give beer its distinctive taste, are grown. Brewers there decided to emphasize the ingredient they had closest at hand and began producing very hoppy beers.

He thinks the proliferation of microbreweries is driven both by consumer demand and by brewers who come up with what at first glance sound like unlikely pairings.

"The trend is to stronger, hoppier beers," he said. "Americans in general like big things."

The company is currently marketing two of those stronger beers, Whipple House Old Ale and Hosiery Mill Double India Pale Ale.

They're both 10 percent alcohol, about twice the kick of most beers, and go best with spicy or strongly flavored foods.

Mercury itself is in the middle of its own explosion, poised to move soon to a converted clam plant not far from the current headquarters. Lipke said the brew pub that is part of the project should open this summer.

Locals hope that attraction will breathe some life into a long-neglected side of the downtown.

Lipke said he doesn't deal with sales, but from his end of the production the recession isn't keeping people from having a beer or two.

"We're brewing at our capacity, " he said.

If you want to try some of Mercury's offerings, here are Lipke's choices for pairing food and beer on the big game day:

Mild chili, nachos and salsa, guacamole and chips: Ipswich Original Ale has the mildest flavor and will do well with tamer chilis. "It's good with a lot of foods and won't overwhelm anything," Lipke said.

Hot chili, spicy Buffalo wings: If you're cooking up a chili with a little more heat, Ipswich Pale Ale will stand up to it.

Barbecued ribs: Ipswich Dark Ale is Lipke's choice.

Sausage, peppers and onions: Ipswich Oatmeal Stout.

Lipke is one football fan who plans to watch the game from the comfort of the couch, with at most a couple of friends. The game won't be the only thing drawing his attention, though.

"I've got a new 4-month-old, Angus."

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