Shoes, belts, wallets, gloves, and ever-ubiquitous handbags are accessories we all use every day.
Often these accessories fill closets, cram hallways, overflow trunks — even occupy the space under the bed. And we're still buying more. The Dublin-based firm Research and Markets in its 2008 Handbags Market Report estimated the U.S. handbag market at $5 billion and growing.
So what's the greenest handbag material? Well there's leather, fur, polyester, canvas, vinyl, cotton, hemp and other natural materials, wool and other animal-derived fibers, and organically-grown materials and fibers. It can be complex because there are many variables with regard to material types, practices and techniques.
The following Green Quick Fixes will help you learn about choices and what to consider the next time you find yourself at a handbag party, department store, or online.
Pleather, polyester, canvas and vinyl
According to People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, pleather is the way to go. Leather manufacturing, too, often includes practices that outrage animal lovers and ethically-inspired vegetarians. PETA and its supporters usually mention tanning chemicals.
However, pleather is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which releases dioxin and other toxins during manufacturing and trash incineration, and polyurethane, which requires oil and thereby emissions of carbon dioxide (a greenhouse gas). Thus, the which-is-greener debate between leather and pleather remains ongoing.
Note, that it's hard to get away from plastics entirely. The linings of all types of handbags often incorporate plastics in some way!
For a list of synthetic shoe and accessory manufacturers, go to www.petakids.com/cowsarecool.html.
Leather and fur
Though considered renewable, most leather and fur production uses chromium-based tanning chemicals that are known carcinogens and serious water pollutants that are a threat to public health through water distribution and farming irrigation systems.
In the U.S., leather tannery process wastewater must abide by Environmental Protection Agency treatment and discharge rules. However, a lot of the handbags sold here are produced in other parts of the world, like China, and have much more lax public health and water quality regulations.
There are chromium-free alternatives, but processes can lead to a stream of potent bacteria to contend with, and they are not considered market expedient at this time. Many companies report they are working collectively to make environmental improvements in the industry. Learn more at the Leather Technology Center at www.blcleathertech.com/default.aspx?id=148.
Also, another mark against the greening of leather is the fact that huge methane (another greenhouse gas) releases are associated with cow husbandry that supports this and other industries. And animal farms that supply the fur industry are often so concentrated that the animal wastes, which contain phosphorus, nitrogen and ammonia pollutants wreak havoc on water, air and soil quality.
Leather manufactured with more environmentally-sensitive approaches using wax, vegetable dyes, etc., is available. Danfield, Inc. is one California company supplying numerous industries with its Eco-Hides leather product. Find out more at www.ecohides.com/eco-friendly-leather-hides.html. Also, try searching online for organic leather.
Wool, alpaca, etc...
While it may be a seemingly more eco-friendly and ethical choice than plastic or leather, there are elements that are worthy of reconsideration.
Often chemicals are used to treat the wool and raise the animals that supply the industry. Copious amounts of pesticides and hormones are also factors. And like cows, sheep, alpaca and other animals used in wool production, it can be far too concentrated in one area, and farms may cause water, air and soil pollution. Such farms offer methane emissions as well.
To make this choice of material a greener one, look for organic and/or pesticide-free labeling. To learn more, go to the Organic Trade Association, www.ota.com/index.html, and search "wool."
Cotton, hemp and natural fibers
Pesticides and other chemicals are used to grow and create fabric used for handbags and other cotton, hemp and natural-fiber accessories. However, certain practices make these material choices greener. Check out manufacturers Web sites to learn more about their efforts to go green with their production.
Used handbags of any kind
If you are buying it used, then you've spared it from the landfill or incinerator, and it's a greener choice than buying new.
Reused plastic handbags.
These funky-looking, often multi-colored, bags are for everyday. Look for them in stores and online. Check with manufacturers for the percent recycled material.
For a little green fad in your life, look for reused leather bags.
Make your own green bag
You can buy organic fabrics and thread and stitch up your own cruelty-free, pesticide-free, chemical-free, no harm bags. Some boutique stores through which you can create your own unique handbag may offer organic material options. Or, if you are crafty with a needle and thread, search for patterns online. Try About.com and search "handbag pattern."
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Andrea Fox, a Beverly resident, has been writing about environmental sustainability and eco-topics for eight years. She is a member of the Society of Environmental Journalists and a watershed protection advocate in Salem Sound Watershed.
