SalemNews.com, Salem, MA

Local News

July 15, 2010

Farmers markets to soon sell wine?

Shoppers at the Salem Farmers Market can pick up locally grown grapes, fresh cheese, whole-grain bread and nearly all the other ingredients needed for a proper wine and cheese party.

Except the wine.

"We'd love to have a local farm that produces local wine sell it at the farmers market," Salem Main Streets Director Jennifer Bell said.

But they can't — and not because of a shortage of Massachusetts wineries.

Complicated state alcohol regulations make it difficult — and some argue impossible — for local wine manufacturers to sell bottles of strawberry wine or sweet hard cider at events like farmers markets, agricultural fairs and fall festivals.

But that could change.

Under an economic development bill that passed the House two weeks ago, local wineries could apply for a permit to sell alcohol from the cities and towns hosting the festivals.

"It would be a whole lot simpler," said Richard Adelman, the owner of Alfalfa Farm Winery in Topsfield, which manufactures its own wines from the grapes it harvests. "It would be a huge benefit if we could serve at farmers markets."

Local wineries, many of which are extensions of family-run farms, see an untapped market. Right now, Adelman estimates he sells 85 percent of the farm's wine on-site, with the rest shipped to the few supermarkets that have retail liquor licenses.

But Massachusetts is experiencing a farmers market boom.

Over the last five summers, the number of farmers markets across the commonwealth has soared from 126 in 2006 to a high of 214 this year, according to figures from the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources. Many stretch from Memorial Day weekend to Thanksgiving.

On the North Shore, Beverly, Ipswich, Marblehead, Peabody, Salem and Topsfield all have weekly farmers markets.

"There's been a growing interest in buying local food and supporting local growers," said David Webber, the state's farmers market coordinator. "It's been a growing movement, so it's reflected in the number of markets."

State Rep. Ted Speliotis of Danvers sees local potential, including wine sales at the Topsfield Fair or at local strawberry festivals.

"From all quarters, people are looking to relax some of the liquor laws," Speliotis said. "This and Sunday brunch and Sunday liquor sales — there have been a few arcane laws that we were looking to modernize."

The changes, which are just part of a much larger economic development bill, passed the House, 145-4. It now heads to a conference committee.

Adelman said the bill wouldn't hurt existing wine dealers.

"All the farm wineries in the state together don't sell as much wine in a year as these big distributors do every day," he said.

Meanwhile, Bell believes local wines would be a popular choice at the Salem market.

"People want to have more local options available to them," she said.

Staff writer Chris Cassidy can be reached at ccassidy@salem news.com.

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