At movie’s end, of course, we see Moriarty finally surf Mavericks. These are real waves — not Hollywood — and the surfers on them are shockingly tiny and breakable. These waves rise up, form immense walls, and then just rain and roar down on the reefs.
Seeing Moriarty fall and nearly drown on the first 50-footer, and then paddle back out to catch and ride successfully another monster, is like nothing else you’ve ever seen. It is an incredible sight, an incredible feat, and you’ll be moved.
What people can do, what they will do, is beyond inspiring; it is noble.
Brian T. Watson is a regular Salem News columnist. Contact him at email@example.com.