SalemNews.com, Salem, MA

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Eateries find trans fat ban half-baked

By Alan Burke
Staff writer
Published: August 28, 2008

A plan to ban trans fats throughout the state could be unnecessary, as popular demand is already forcing out the unhealthy ingredient, local restaurateurs say.

Finding a restaurant that is even willing to admit to using it is difficult.

"None of my formulas call for it," said Bernard Newman of Newman's Bakery in Swampscott. He's skeptical of the need for a statewide prohibition.

State Rep. Peter Koutoujian has written to John Auerbach, the public health commissioner, suggesting that he impose the ban. Auerbach is reacting positively, according to published reports, seeking to determine if he has the authority to do it.

Such a ban would be enforced by local boards of health.

Arthur Velonis, owner of Bob's Famous Fried Clams in Salem, uses a soy-based alternative oil.

"I was fearful there was going to be a detection of a different taste by the customers." Yet, in months, with hundreds of customers buying his fried foods, almost no one has even noticed. "Two people said, 'You must be using something different in the fryer.' ... Two people."

Since there is no appreciable difference in taste, Velonis is happy to make the substitution. For that matter, his vendors have told him that he's part of a major trend to do without the suspect fat.

News of the proposed ban made Peabody state Rep. Joyce Spiliotis groan. "Oh, please. Now we're going to dictate to everybody what they can eat? Where will it end? The only thing left is to declare martial law and tell everyone that they have to get in the house by 9 o'clock."

George Abboud of Salem, who teaches nutrition at Salem State, also raised a question about taking choice away from people. "There are lots of things that are (health risks) that are legal," he said. "Cigarettes and alcohol."

On the other hand, he added that there isn't a good word to be said for trans fats, an invention that changes the structure of vegetable oil, allowing it to keep longer. It's also been linked to various ailments from heart disease to the nation's obesity epidemic.

"But I don't know if you can ban trans fats," Abboud said. Meanwhile, lately, packaged goods that used to be loaded with the stuff — like cookies, pie crust and peanut butter — are increasingly relying on other oils.

"The major brands have started to remove trans fat," Abboud said. "And I can't taste the difference."

Abboud would opt for knowledge over prohibition, however. "If you're required to disclose what you're using — that would be more than enough for me."

The owner of Kell's Kreme in Swampscott, John Costantino, believes that the best way to serve the health of his customers is to avoid trans fats. It's not for sale in his shop, he says. "It's a lot harder for the system to digest trans fats."

Costantino studied the issue in culinary school. He approves of the proposed ban on the substance. "There's no taste difference at all."

His own personal diet excludes trans fats, Costantino said. That hasn't made him rail-thin. "I wouldn't say I've lost weight. I still eat a lot. But my health is better."

For some, "trans fat" is like a dirty word. When The Salem News asked one manager about trans fats in his establishment, he abruptly hung up the phone.

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